Voltage Drop Test
This is a basic voltage drop test across the terminals of a battery to quickly diagnose a problem the customer was having with his vehicle not starting.
This is a basic voltage drop test across the terminals of a battery to quickly diagnose a problem the customer was having with his vehicle not starting.
Okay
i have a question.does the voltage drop readings increase as amperage increases?i seen a car that had a 2v drop on power side,the spec fuel pressure was 45psi but the pump was putting out a massive 90psi.would this cause a rise in amperage that would create a 2v drop?
Thank you.. Straight to the point : )
My local garage told me I failed this at a service and want to charge me the equivalent of $300 😂 thief’s
Btw I’ve never had a vehicle battery start issue at all, and it still starts with all electrics in working order
Extremely clear and concise. Trying to comprehend WHY the open shows
up as a voltage ?
Perfectly presented, and dead on recommendation. Rather than me doing my own Video of doing a voltage drop test I will just use yours. Absolutely perfectly performed and explained. Kudos!
Thank you
3:09…now, that’ll be $154.39. Thank you and come agaain soon!
I just subscribed. Great explanation. Came by your video and glad I did.
Loved how you kept it so simple
Very useful information. Well done!
Thank you
I really like this video!
great video… thank you!
Bad painted aftermarket terminal
Current moving across resistance will create a voltage ….
wow that connection looked pretty good though. I’d never suspect it.
Thanks for the simple way to explain this subject. I don’t think I have ever seen this explained so fast and easy to follow, 123!
On point, clear and concise
thanks mate i like your common sense
To the point and very well done. 👍👍👍
Okay
Love your video Jeremy.
The clamps on this battery are only good for fishermen to melt down and make lead sinkers ! 7/27/23
Straight to the point! Great video
NO complicated, quite simple 2 understand; just subscribed.
But what he failed to talk about and to diagnose if you clean the post and it still had high direct current fluctuations and it was not at zero like the positive cable or in fact both of them had issues positive side and groundside if he clean that terminal and or replace the terminal with a brand new one and he still had issues than the problem lies further I get the concept I’ve done this before but that’s just talking about just the icing on the cake you’re not actually giving us the ingredients to make the cake talking about just the icing on the cake you’re not actually giving us the ingredients to make the cake which I really don’t see anybody here in the comments talking about this because if that battery terminal was replaced and you still have an issue what does that mean that means that the problem lies further and if the problem lies further we got to find out how to diagnose what our issue is
thank you
Information was clear and concise easy to understand, thank you!
love the info and like the transitions as well. Nice video! Thanks for sharing.
Switch ON or OFF
great job.
That is an excellent demonstration of a simple voltage drop test that repaired the no-start issue. Simple and to the point, thank you sir.
Thank you sir!! This helped me get my truck started!! My positive cable was ready only 0.22 when checking post to clamp. Figured maybe.. cable was old so swapped it out and boom!! Started right up! Thanks again!
This was explained excellently. Very clear!
Is the ignition switch needs to be ON position when performing voltage drop test?
12.6v is a good battery 12.1V mean battery is not holding charge. Weaker battery especially in cold weather.
1st off that obsolete vat needed to be scrapped when ICs entered the seen in at least 1980
Good and easy explanation thanks Philippe from London
Thank you for this succinct and well-presented explanation and demonstration. Praying I can use this to hopefully find out I don’t need a new starter on my 2008 Toyota Sequoia because those are a pain to change out!
Excellent report
The circuit wasn’t even on, the connection must have really been bad. Good video and thanks!
This just saved me a lot of time and effort. My negative terminal had a 10v drop and had ZERO power at ignition. Cleaned up the wires and retightened the Neg terminal the Grand Cherokee WJ started right up. Thanks
Thanks a lot sir for your video. A very fundamental test which lot of u tubers have missed. You are a notch above all.
What did you set the meter to
Great
you gave me usefull inormation thank you very much for you effort
So you went from 12.43 volts to 12.15 volts in one minute. That is highly suspect.
Hi, I have. problem with dodge caravan. I changed the alternator and the battery was tested it is working, however. There is a sharp rapid drop in voltage after I turn the engine off. does within seconds from 12 to 9 volts. I have to jump start every single time I turn it off and even for gas filling at the pump. Do you have any suggestions on what that might be?
Sir: An open on the negative post is creating an additional LOAD (the open)
that is in SERIES with a pre-existing load in the vehicle (clock running, alarm system activated etc etc). Approximate 1 volt drop at the other load.
Thank you. comment please.