Can 3d Printing Improve Your Car?
Can 3d Printing Improve Your Car?
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Can 3d Printing Improve Your Car?
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Your intro made me laugh
my nineties Toyota Hilux is missing the reflectors that it has under the rear light, it is from the srv version so it is very difficult to get in my country, now it has a very ugly hole. 3D print look like s solution
I’ve been on the fence but you just convinced me to buy a 3D Printer
Maybe somebody said it, but you might be able to find that piece at Pick-n-Pull.
What about wire frame scanning. Wouldn’t that be more accurate and easier ?
I just had to model and print a cold air intake for a truck that I bought because the previous owner installed the wrong radiator – one for a newer model truck. This moved the upper radiator hose up by about 3", and made the air filter plumbing run straight into the upper radiator hose. So I modeled a piece that had a notch for the radiator hose to rest in without chafing and still letting air flow from a cone-style air filter. It should do the trick and from my research, ASA will hold up to underhood temperatures.
I used eSun ASA filament. I learned to print ASA at 50% of the speed you print PLA or PETG, and layers should be no more than 0.12 mm if you want the layers to stick together. I printed at 260*C and 90*C on the bed in an open-air Ender 3 Pro with Direct Drive and an 0.6mm nozzle.
But with 0.250" walls, 4 parameters, 4 top and bottom layers and solid infill, I am confident in the part. Now to test it with underhood temperatures.
It seems like the LiDAR feature on the newer iPhones/iPads could give an accurate digital model although I have no idea if that’s even practical
i use grid paper and it works the best for 3d modeling
The cupholders in my car don’t hold a cup securely when going around a corner at a decent enough speed. Thankfully, i have a printer and PETG. I’m going to look into fixing this issue.
I really need an armrest in between drivers and passengers seats
Thankfully my 1999 Nissan Pulsar has a centre console box between the front seats that is perfect for square 600ml, aka pint, milk drinks and it also holds the 1 litre cottees cordial bottles that I often drink from, they have a flip top pour spout! So I don’t really need to change that, however, I’m thinking I am going to need a new car, sooner rather than later, and I hope I can find one that suits the odd shaped drink containers I use! Else I might have to invest in a 3D printer as well!!
Meantime, are you not required to have a licence plate where the licence plates go??? Back and front?? In Australia, we are, but we can make surrounds for them, so that’s a possibility!
Just found your channel. Why didn’t I find this earlier
What camera do you use to record yourself? The quality is amazing!!!
PETG can get very brittle, crumbly and even looks like it is rotting from UV exposure (and in the car on the sun there will be UV). Black PETG is much more resistant and primer + uv resistant paint will help big time, but if you do not want to paint it try out ASA material. It is not that hard to print, not expensive, and it is UV resistant with much higher working temp range than PETG.. You will need to put some "box" over your printer to properly print ASA (no need to have heated chamber, but closed chamber is very useful) and supports are much easier to remove than with PETG (petg is too sticky so supports are not as easy to remove as with PLA or ASA)
You don’t necessarily need to do 100% infill, just double up on your layers and it’ll do a ton for increasing rigidity
Where can I download the 80 series cup holder file?
it would only take me 10-15 minutes to model that part by skipping all the unnecessary steps like tracing it and writing down measurements.
i just measure and model it simultaneously. i’ve made parts that function better and are stronger than the original injection mold part. like a phone mount ball socket.
i didn’t need to do any iterations on it because the first print was perfect.
Where can I get one of those home star runner license plates?
Home! Star! Run! Go!!!
My 3D printer paid for itself multiple times over when replicating no longer sold or unreasonably expensive interior parts for my car. Not to talk about my home appliances.
lay the part in a flatbed scanner to get the geometry of its faces
you need an ACME sticker on that cupholder….the coyote would approve!
You should do some prints in cf nylon or glass fiber nylon filament
I Would use ASA & not ABS, ASA is far better then ABS.
Homestar Runner!!!!!! back down that rabbit hole I go.
unless Microcenter puts in a store closer to where I live, I don’t have much use for them
Any update on the SLA vs FDM, or is it more of a Summertime test? Quite curious. We are looking at printing replacement plastic parts for some displays we sell/make, and I have been wondering whether the resin’s UV curing will aid longevity in hostile vehicle environments.
You look so much like the guy Adam from VAT19.
Over 100° C 😯😯😯
For folks learning Fusion 360 – avoid over complicating your sketches, as seen at 5:35. The best approach is to break them into simpler sketches and use the "Project" command to reference existing 3D geometry. All the blue lines are not yet defined, which will cause havoc when changing the user parameters. Also, (almost) always apply fillets at the end. Helps avoid referencing issues. Hope this helps! 🙂
I modeled and printed a press fit cup holder adapter to hold my Yeti Coffee Mug since my cup holder was too small to hold it originally.
As someone who actually remakes and sells 3D printed plastic parts for old cars (albeit in low quantities), I would make one note on the use of PETG. In my experience I have found that under stress it will eventually deform slightly with elevated temperatures (even here in the Pacific Northwest). Summers with sunny days in excess of 105F were enough to do it for me. This is really only a problem for small trim clips and press-fit items though. I doubt you would see such effects as soon on larger parts. A Tg of 80C is reasonable, although apparently not perfectly sufficient for all geometries.
I’ve now ditched PETG for anything automotive related and stick to ASA, PC, TPU, and CF-Nylon. I realize those are more difficult to print for many people but the better properties are very much worth it in my opinion. Also acetone welding with ABS/ASA is a lifesaver for anything you may need to print larger than your build volume. The only thing I miss about PETG is the absurdly good layer adhesion, although PC competes pretty well on that metric.
Another tip when trying to replicate a part in cad is to print on paper the top, bottom and sides view in 1:1 scale when you are done. That way you can verify a lot of things like holes location just by putting the part on the paper and compare. It’s a great time saver
or ou can put three wheels on a spring system so the container slides straight out no twisting.
It is easier to find parts for your Toyota than it is to find parts for my lawnmower.
Who else thought this mad lad was gonna make a way to 3D print on a moving car?
I love to improve a car by 3D printing. I did my first parts in my last video as well. Good Video, thumbs up !
The cap on the cup holder doesn’t just need to move with the spring-loaded curved surface. It needs to be a two layer thing so that one part telescopes over the other
I designed a wing (spoiler) stabilizer for my car, which they sont sell. I dont have a 3d printer so i went on etsy and found someone willing to print two of them. Since the part doesnt exist i made a prototype from modeling clay and used that and its measurements as a basis for my 3r model. I did have it printed in PLA and spent so many hours sanding, priming painting, clear coating, and car wax to match my cars paint perfectly. Turned out great, except it got hot and did exactly what your button box did. So this summer i will have it reprinted in PTEG or buy a printer and do it all again
New Customers Exclusive – Get a Free 128gb Flash drive and 128gb MicroSD Card at Micro Center: https://micro.center/88a6a8 Check out Micro Center’s selection of 3D Printers: https://micro.center/884a09
When I print parts that have to interface with some existing thing – I’ve basically given up on printing entire parts on the first pass. The first pass will just be the interfacing elements. Once I’ve got the interface surfaces to print and fit – it’s easy to merge the viable model into the full part. It’s been a game changer for saving time and generates less waste.
General 3d Printing tip. – Clean your bed !
Dude needs a new car, not just shitty 3d printed pieces!
If they made a Homestar Runner plate, you KNOW there has to be a Strong Bad one!! 😂👍🏼
Wait, hold up, is that a Sovtek Mig50 back there?
Doing car repairs and upgrades was my primary motivation for getting a 3D printer and 3D scanner. I’m not good with CAD yet, but I’m getting there. 😏
don’t use PLA
Doing CAD in blender just seems masochistic. Great video 👍
The Blender community thanks you.
Is this the guy who owns Twitter